have come to spain to tidy up after the summer and prepare for the winter months; the harsh differences of extreme heat and then damp winter is not great for these old houses. september is such a lovely time to visit – there is still the warmth of a late summer, the fresh air in the early evening, the town has just the right amount of people to make it feel alive, and the beaches are near empty – the sea is warm from the long summer…. what more can you ask for?
tuna is the big produce of the area and now sashimi of tuna seems to be on the menu everywhere – the mercado, which is the original fish market still sells fruit and produce in the day, but is now home to a sushi and ham eatery – its become the stopping place for the locals to have a drink after work and a tapas at lunch – the sushi is actually pretty good. its sad to see some businesses gone and to see everything modernised – i guess its progression and just because i love old fashioned classic, its selfish to want everyone to stay the same. i disliked what designers did to the mercado, but at least its busier and thriving and the locals seem to appreciate it.
we visited 2 of our favourite restaurants el campero – in barbate and the restaurant in hotel antonio in Zahara de los attunes – both are high quality and more pricey, but if you pick carefully, not more expensive than london; in season Zahara is a hippy young town by the sea, about half an hours drive from Vejer – its not old architecture, but was originally a fishing town, but now is a holiday venue extending out towards Atlanterra. Atlanterra has dream houses built into the side of a hill overlooking the sea, some with access to their own private beach – there are modernist houses too – quite James Bond style – go and oggle the marvellous designs. zahara does have a wonderful beach and it stretches a couple of miles – its especially lovely at sunset. surfing the net for dream houses seems to be a hobby — the modern house is perfect for that.