vejer de la fronterra

have come to spain to open up the house ready for the holiday season – we havent been for 6 months, and apparently they have had a lot of rain and wind – and so our poor garden is looking the worse for wear.  its also a time for sorting and throwing out – things start to look tired or broken.  visitng your own house that you rent out is never a holiday – you spend most of the time cleaning, sorting and repairing!

its beautiful and sunny at the moment, around 18C, but with the wind you still need to wrap up warm.  we stopped off for fish lunch at la fontanilla on the journey from seville – always a welcome to see the sea as soon as you arrive.  we love vejer out of season – it looks empty and quiet as a lot of the businesses only open in the summer months and takes you back to 20 years ago, when we first arrived in vejer;  its a time when you see who has survived the winter season – if the locals dont use you, then its hard to survive.  tuna is the big produce of the area and now sashimi of tuna seems to be on the menu everywhere – the mercado, which is the original fish market still sells produce in the day, but is now home to a sushi and ham eatery – its become the stopping place for the locals to have a drink after work and a tapas – the sushi is actually pretty good.  its sad to see some businesses gone and to see everything modernised – i guess its progression and just because i love old fashioned classic, its selfish to want everyone to stay the same.  i disliked what designers did to the mercado, but at least its busier and thriving and the locals seem to appreciate it.

in hope of a tuna lunch in barbate, we discovered that our favourite restaurant el campero is being renovated, but headed for their other place in Zahara de los atunes – which we loved – it was much more of a bustling crowd;  in season Zahara is a hippy young town by the sea, about half an hours drive from Vejer – its not old architecture, but was originally a fishing town, but now is a holiday venue extending out towards Atlanterra.  Atlanterra has dream houses built into the side of a hill overlooking the sea, some with access to their own private beach – there are modernist houses too.  zahara does have a wonderful beach and it stretches a couple of miles – its especially lovely at sunset.

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