venice is for walking and getting lost, you can try and look at the map, but it just frustrates you, give yourself enough time to find your proposed destination and if you get lost, you will always find a sign directing you towards either san marco or the rialto bridge, which means you can then hop onto a boat back to your hotel or a recognisable site. by the end of our visit, we realised that it was actually quicker walking everywhere than taking the boats; though buying yourself a day ticket and enjoying all the views of the grand canal is worth it. we stumbled upon the museo fortuny, a beautiful old palazzo owned by the artist Mariano Fortuny Madrazo, which he restored to be his home and work studio, producing beautiful fabrics, artworks and clothes – remember those gorgeous pleated evening dresses? on his death, his wife left the property to the council as a preservation of art, and so now it houses temporary exhibitions. the one we saw was centred around the marchesa Luisa Casati, a turn of the century Isabella Blow. the exhibition is beautiful, not only showing the beautiful hanging fabrics of fortune, but also the vastness of the palazzo. as well as the peggy guggenheim museum it would be one of the things high on my list next time.